One of the most exciting parts of being a colorist is coming up with new formulations, especially when it comes to vivid/fashion colors. I was given the challenge to come up with a formula that matched Pantone’s Color of the Year which is Ultra Violet.
Because I like a challenge, I started experimenting with all oxidative color. My co-worker Holly came up with some amazing formulations using Oway’s Pure Pigment Concentrate Hmelt. I love the way her formulations turned out, but I wanted to come up with something a little less pastel. Through a lot of trial and error I came up with a formula that used Simply Organic Beauty’s Ultra Violet Spring Color Kit.
Once I had a formula that I liked, I wanted a blank canvas to work with. The model that I used was already platinum blonde with a little bit of level 6 regrowth.
I started by using 25 volume with Oway Hbleach Butter Cream Lightener in the back and worked my way to the front, eventually using Oway Hcatalyst 30 Volume Cream Developer. I put a cap on her to trap all of the heat from her scalp to speed up the process. Then I let her process for about 30 minutes before rinsing her out. She had some old toner on her ends so I went through with a combination of Oway Hmilk No-Stress Conditioning Treatment and Oway Hcatalyst 20 Volume Cream Developer with Hbleach to lift out some of the old color. That sat on the hair for about 5-10 minutes. Once that was lifted out, I used Original Mineral Conquer Blonde Silver Shampoo followed by Hmilk as to not close the cuticle.
Now that her hair was at the blank canvas that I wanted, I could start doing the fun stuff. My goal for the final look was a color melt. One of the most important things to remember while doing this look is to always start in the back. The hair around the front hairline is the most porous and will give you a much darker look then you want. You want to start in the back while the hair is still damp (towel-dried). Having the hair still a little damp will make sectioning easier and quicker and will also allow the color to melt together more seamlessly.
I did all of the roots in the back with my first formula then went through with my second formula and melted it together. I then started applying my first formula to the roots in the front section, starting with vertical sections closest to the ear. Again, this will ensure that the hair around the face won’t get too dark. Once all of the roots were done up front, I went through and melted them with the second formula. I let everything process for 20 minutes.
When she was ready to rinse out, I started by wetting everything down and emulsifying really well. The reasoning was to ensure everything melted together well and for the root color to slightly tone the ends. I did a light shampoo and followed with a moisturizing conditioner.
About the Stylist
Caitlin Helle
Caitlin Helle is a hairstylist at Smoke + Mirrors in Baltimore, MD. Caitlin started her career in 2009, when she worked as an assistant at Sam Wong Salon. This is where she was first introduced to organic and natural hair care products. Through taking classes and a lot of late night mentoring sessions, she realized education was something she wanted to be a part of.
In 2012 she became a certified educator for Simply Organic Beauty and began teaching classes to hairstylists throughout the region afterwards.
As a color specialist, Caitlin was featured in The Colorist magazine’s “30 Under 30 Colorists to Watch”. Although she enjoys all aspects of coloring, balayage and color corrections have a special place in her heart.
Outside of the salon, Caitlin has been involved with New York Fashion Week 2017 and regularly does hair and makeup for THE Artist Agency. She also gives back to the community by doing haircuts for local recovery programs.
