Let’s face it, sometimes color doesn’t always come out the way we’d like. Especially on guests with resistant greys. There are a lot of factors involved, including medication the client may be taking, pregnancy, product build up or hard water.
Grey hair is “hard hair” and we don’t just mean “hard to cover” – it literally means that grey hair has a substantially thicker cuticle than pigmented hair. Not only that, but those extra layers are packed down hard, making the depositing of color difficult. But don’t let those greys get you down – we promise it isn’t as hard as it may seem when it comes to creating gorgeous, even color coverage.
Here are a few tips for formulating + options on blending to help you navigate grey coverage!
Start with a good clarifier so you’ll have a fresh palate to work with. Oway Htech Pre-Color Clarifying Shampoo is a great choice. It’s highly effective in removing impurities (like product build up or hard water) that can block hair color molecules from penetrating the hair shaft.
Next, choose a permanent color line that meets your guest’s needs. We love Oway’s Hcolor + O&M’s CØR.color for their beautiful color ranges and flawless grey coverage.
Before anything else, determine the percentage of grey hair present to determine your formula. Many people find that dropping down a half to a full level when formulating allows for ample pigment weight and better color deposit.
Oway Hcolor
For best results when using Oway Hcolor: Mix 1:1 with 20 volume for deposit
Super resistant?
Use Hypercolor accelerator drops:
Mix 10 drops to every 30g of color. Whisk into the color first before adding 30g developer.
Oway Hypercolor is a process accelerator oil that helps speed up processing time and improves grey coverage. Its formula contains 10 precious organic oils that encapsulate the hair color pigments in your formula, protecting them from premature oxidation while strengthening their wetting capacity. Because of this, pigments penetrate quickly and effectively into the cortex with the aid of low to medium heat. This addition can shave off up to 75% of the normal processing time.
Bonus: Process under low to medium heat with an aerated cap for 20 minutes if time permits. Remove cap + heat and let sit an additional 5 minutes.
You can shop our full range of Oway Hcolor here!
O&M CØR.color
For best results when using O&M CØR.color: Mix 1:1.5 with 20vol for deposit. Process 35 mins for flawless coverage.
Super resistant?
Drop your shade down a half level darker!
You can shop our full range of O&M CØR.color here!
Techniques for coverage + blending
For those who don’t want single process color and would prefer a more blended look.
Highlights:
Highlights create a natural, multi-dimensional look that blends in with the client’s natural hair color. This technique is particularly effective for clients who do not want to fully cover their gray hair.
Lowlights:
Adding darker shades instead of lighter can increase depth and dimension. Perfect for clients who want to add richness + depth to gray hair.
Gray blending:
Gray blending involves adding a semi-permanent hair color that matches the client’s natural color to cover some of the gray hair while allowing some gray to show through. It’s particularly effective for clients who want a low-maintenance option that doesn’t require frequent touch-ups or the commitment of permanent color.
As a hairstylist, it is important to consult with your client and discuss their desired outcome before recommending a specific technique. It is also important to use high-quality hair color products and follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully to ensure the best results!
