Mastering your red and copper formulations can be key to achieving your client’s hair goals. Whether it’s fiery copper or deep mahogany, customizing your formulas can make all the difference. In this blog, Areté Lead Artist, Jordan Jones, shares her expert tips on creating stunning red and copper shades. Learn to formulate shades that compliment every client’s skin tone, ensuring they leave with their perfect color every time.
The Secret to Red Hair: Finding the Right Shade
“Anyone can pull off red hair, but it has to be the right shade,” – Jordan
Formulating the ideal color for your client starts with understanding their skin tone. The wrong shade can accentuate darker areas on the face, like under-eye circles, and highlight unwanted tones in the complexion. On the other hand, a complementary shade will enhance the complexion, making it appear vibrant and healthy.
To identify your client’s skin tone, examine the veins on the back of their wrists. If the veins appear more green, they have warm undertones. On the other hand, if the veins appear more blue, they have cool undertones.
Formulation Tips
Check out Jordan’s formulation tips complimenting each skin tone below!
Skin Tone: Neutral & Cool
Complimentary Tones: Orange-Reds & True Reds
Formula
Base: 8.03, 8.34 + 8.4 with 20 Vol (Ratio- 1:1.5)
All Over Gloss: 8.3 + 8.44 + .33 with 3.5 Vol (Ratio- 1:2)
Skin Tone: Olive
Complimentary Tones: Blue-Red & Violet-Red
Formula
Prelightened to a level 7
First Process (fill the hair): 6.5 + 5.3 with 3.5 Vol (processed 10 minutes)
Second Process (final color): 4.2 + 5.8 with 3.5 Vol (processed 5-10 minutes)
Ready to recreate these looks? Explore the World of Alchemic Color!
Bending The Rules
In an ideal world, our clients would choose the red shade that complements their skin tone perfectly, but that’s not always realistic. Here’s an example of how you can adjust your formulation to compliment their skin tone.
Skin Tone: Yellow & Warm
Complimentary Tones: True reds with hints of warmth
Client’s Desired Shade: Orange Copper
“We can add a little .5 (Mahogany) to the copper root and copper lowlight formula. This is going to create more of an auburn vibe to balance the brighter copper highlights against her skin. Keeping the base and lowlights in alignment with what her skin needs, saves the day. “ – Jordan
Incorporating these formulation tips can elevate your work behind the chair. Mastering red and copper hair formulations requires attention to detail and a thorough understanding of how different shades interact with various skin tones. By customizing your formulas based on undertones, you can create the perfect red or copper color for every client. The next time a client walks in ready for the red or copper shade of their dreams, you’ll have expert tips to personalize and create their perfect shade.
Looking for more tips from Jordan? Be sure to follow Jordan’s Instagram!
